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Since I will be registering
my car as a 1965, it doesn't need to pass the strict emissions
tests that the mustang did, so I removed most of the emissions
related stuff. I left the EGR and its solenoid for now because I
have heard it makes the engine run better. I will probably
remove it in the future. In case you were wondering, my engine
runs fine after removing all of this stuff. I haven't really
driven out of the garage yet so I'm not sure if everything
really works, but the engine runs and sounds great. It idles at
a constant rpm and I can rev it up without a problem. I figure
the air pump and the other emissions stuff is good for at least
ten pounds. |
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| The
first thing you should remove is the air pump and everything
connected to it. It unbolts from the front bottom of the block
and from the rear of the heads. |
When
you remove the air pump from the back of the heads you will
notice two holes left. These holes go into the heads and must be
plugged. You can either order inserts from ford, or get some
5/8" - 11 coarse thread bolts from the hardware store. I
choose the inserts but bolts are cheaper and work just as good.
Either way you go, you will have to scrape the carbon out of the
threads b or you will not be able to thread the bolts in.
Thankfully, I had the right tap, but people have suggested
taking one of the 5/8" bolts and cutting grooves in it and
threading it in until clean. |
This isn't
really emissions related, but I thought I'd include it here. My
low oil level sensor leaked so I pulled it out and plugged it
with a pipe plug. I couldn't find a match for the sensor thread
so I bought a 1/2" standard plug and tapped the hole to
fit. I sealed it with some rtv. |
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| The fuel
vapor canister was the next thing to go. It it a box filled with
some rocks (charcoal maybe?) and it has a vacuum powered
solenoid and a return line to the fuel tank. Its a MESS! The
picture shows the actual canister. The removal is a three step
process... |
1.) The
first step is to remove the solenoid and its associated wiring.
The picture shows the solenoid. You can also see the wiring
plug, which is part of the engine harness (the same wires that
the fuel injectors plug into). To get rid of the computer code,
you should solder a 10K OHM resistor into the plug. I haven't
done this yet so no pictures. |
2.) With
that removed, you will now have to plug the vacuum hose that
sticks out of the upper intake. I choose to plug the extension
with a vacuum cap, but you could probably find a plug for the
actual hole in the intake. The picture shows the hose
extension (the one with tape on it). |
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| 3.) Now you
have to deal with the hole left in the fuel tank from the now
missing return line. One suggestion is to run an extension hose
from the hole up along the gas tank filler. The general idea is
just to get the vapors out from under the car so it doesn't
smell. |
The vacuum
distribution block in the back of the upper intake can pretty
much be left alone. The one exception is removing the vacuum
tree feed and plugging the hole with a vacuum cap. With that
done you can also throw out the plastic vacuum tree. |
The air
pump had two sensors plugged into them on the computer harness.
These are the TAB and TAD solenoids. To eliminate the codes, cut
off the plugs and solder in a 10K OHM resistor into each one.
This picture shows the plugs still in place near the computer. |
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| By removing
the air pump, you will need a shorter belt. Go to any auto parts
store and ask for a 5 rib, 59.4 inch belt and get the closest
one they have. I ended up getting a 60" belt but I think
anything around this length will work fine. I recomend autozone
fore belts only because they are considerably cheaper than
anyplace else. My belt cost $7.99, the same one at a local shop
cost $34!!!! |
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